Browse answers to Frequently Asked Questions about Entry Level Shooting Sticks

1 - Do I really need to buy a set of my own...why not just use what the PH has?
Absolutely, it is important you get comfortable with them before you leave home.  The same reason you bring over you own rifle is the same reason why you should bring over your own set of sticks…..so you can practice with them in advance to gain proficiency.

Jim Carmichel featured our products in a write-up he did for Outdoor Life.  Jim was the Gun Editor of that publication and a veteran of over 40 African Safaris.  He is also a nationally ranked bench rest shooter.  When we met with him, he said after a comfortable pair of boots, a straight shooting rifle and high quality optics came a good set of shooting sticks.  You have spent thousands on the hunt, thousands on airfare, thousands on equipment and then when the moment of truth comes why would you shoot off of a set of sticks cut from green wood (springy), cut very long so it fits the tallest hunter (not good for the average person) that has no padding to protect your fore end. 

Larry Chesney, who was the Managing Editor of Sporting Classics Magazine lost his gun and Sporting Wood Creations shooting sticks for the first part of his safari.  This is what he had to say about that experience, “I learned the hard way that all shooting sticks are not created equal.  My Sporting Wood Creations sticks were indispensible”

2 - How do I set them up and what grip works best
The first question is easy.  You simply grasp the two color coded legs (black noise bumpers) and post the other one out front in the direction you want to shoot.  In terms of how to grip them, we asked three PH’s that very question and they all gave us different answers.  Some said grasp the sticks and the rifle together.  Some said leave the sticks alone and just grasp the rifle and one said lay your hand in the “V” and put the rifle on top of that.  All agreed that you should not rest the barrel in the “V” as resting the fore-end allows for a steadier shot.  Personally I like to grasp the rifle and the sticks simultaneously so you can adjust them easier and hold onto both the rifle and sticks.  I would suggest you try all three above and go with the one that feels best for you.

3 - Can I use just the top section from the sitting or kneeling position?
They are designed to be used in that manner. Simply take them apart and post the pointed bottoms in the ground for a rock solid rest from the sitting or kneeling position.

4 - What kind of groups can I expect?
It is not uncommon to achieve groups similar to what you would get shooting off a bench.  There are a couple of reasons for this.  First is that shooting big bores from a bench is punishing as your body takes the full impact of the shot.  After a few shots even the most recoil tolerant of us start to take a beating and groups grow.  When you use our very strong and rigid sticks, you can roll with the shot and thus you reduce felt recoil considerably. Terry Wieland mentions this very issue when he tested the new Ruger .375 that weighs in at less than 8 pounds.  He used a set of our sticks during his evaluation to increase his shooting comfort.

The other reason why the groups are so small is that we offer wooden shafts hand-turned from select hardwoods (including  Hickory)  In addition, we kiln dry our woods to further increase their rigidity (and reduce the weight) even further.

5 - Why do you use a copper friction-fit connector versus one that has a stamped metal/plastic adjustment mechanism as seen on many of the aluminum products or one held in by gravity that has a wood to copper fit?
Because a copper to copper friction fit makes for a much more dependable and robust connector.  Stamped metal or plastic adjustment mechanisms typically seen on Aluminum versions will not hold up over time.  A gravity type connector that has a copper to wood fit will wear the wood down and make it even more likely that legs will unintentionally drop off and cause additional wobble over time. The above is especially true if you use them in sandy environments.  Please take a minute to read the following differnces between our new “Entry Level” Shooting Sticks and the other brand of wooden shafted Shooting Sticks:

• The other maker of wooden shafted shooting sticks says they used the gravity connector because “They wanted a connection that allowed for a quick change between standing and sitting/kneeling shot opportunities”. Fact of the matter is that because you carry shooting sticks parallel to the ground (not upright like a flag, spooking game) to prevent the tops from falling out the first thing most folks do with the other wood sticks is duct tape the joint together which prevents a quiet and quick change. In talking to African PH’s, 95% of your shots will be from the standing position. If you do need to take a shot from the sitting position our sticks come apart in about one minute which is about how long it takes you to just remove the tape (longer to remove the gummy residue) from theirs.


• Our version has metal-to-metal contact, which makes them more rigid and virtually impervious to wear. Their version relies on wood to metal contact that wears the wood down over time, thus reducing their rigidity, and makes them more prone to dropping legs over time.


• When you get our version wet, the metal-to-metal connector contains the swelling.


• When you use our version from the sitting or kneeling position, it is much easier to post the pointed metal connector into the ground.


• On our version, we recess the copper connector on the top and bottom portion so it is flush with the shafts as opposed to simply sliding a larger diameter metal tube over a dowel which leaves an exposed edge.


• On our version, we put noise suppression bumpers where you need them most, on the connector to keep them from rattling.

6 - Why do all your sticks have a point on the bottom versus rubber tips?
Most of the hunting in Africa is done during the dry season and posting the legs into the ground prevents them from splaying out under recoil.  Rubber tips are great if you want to practice in your home but they do not give you purchase in the field. Quoting Don Heath again, “Most of the areas where I hunt the ground is rock hard and they need some kind of “non-slip” base on them.  Sharpening the sticks slightly works fine.”

7 - Why do they cost slightly more than other shooting sticks on the market?
Because even our “Entry Level” model is superior to the other, wooden and aluminum shafted Shooting Sticks on the market.  The stronger, simpler connector costs more than other “connectors as do the other components we use to ensure they will provide years of service, or putting it another way…you will spend a lot more money over time replacing your cheaper sticks than you would if you bought one of our “Entry Level” models.

We use the best value engineered components available.   Even our “Entry Level” models require over 50 steps before they are completed.  I make every set, right in our wood shop in Ohio.  We do not import or assemble Chinese parts here, we actually do it all from start to finish.

8 - Are they just for Africa or can I use them elsewhere?
Craig Boddington, Mike Rogers, Tony Makris and hundreds of others have used them on six Continents to take all manner of game.  They work just as well in the Arctic for Musk Ox, as they do in Colorado on an Elk hunt.  Hunters especially like to use them as a walking aid, which is something many other models cannot offer.

9 - What if they need repair or I want to return them?
Simply send them back and we will repair them, send you a new set or refund your money if you are not absolutely satisfied with them.